Penang, or the Pearl of the Orient, is a world-renowned exotic holiday destination.

Listed as Unesco World Cultural Heritage Site in 2008, the paradise offers diversity of culture, blend of historical heritage, and modern urban city life.

Of course, Penang is also known to be the home for many heritage craftsmen, struggling to survive in today’s world where technology beats almost everything.

Then again, nothing beats quality.

Last week, in collaboration with Big Blue Holidays, we took a trip to Penang with the aim of experiencing first-hand the beauty of the island surrounded by natural charms and, above all, to discover its hidden gems.

On our first morning walk in George Town, we met an old man and oh, believe me, he was no ordinary old man but a legend.

Meet Lee Beng Chuan, George Town’s living heritage.

Born in Penang, the humble and friendly 90-year-old man is said to be the only joss stick maker in Penang who still continues to make this ancient Chinese incense by hand. He has been doing that for more than 70 years.

Today, Lee lives in a rented shophouse with his fourth son on Muda Lane, a street next to Stewart Lane where he was born.

He always welcomes tourists and locals who stop by to chat with him. He gladly shares his stories of the good (and not so good) ol’ days of pre-war times when the British and Japanese came to Malaya.

Lee started to make joss sticks in his 20s. Having no master, he used to sit in a temple and watch people make the sticks.

A few years later, he decided to step ahead of the game by starting to make a dragon joss stick. He claimed it wasn’t easy. The fact that he had to teach himself from scratch was certainly a big challenge for him.

“I bought other people’s dragon joss sticks and disassembled them. Then, I learned to make it part by part (by re-assembling the pieces together).

“I had to shape it and use different tools to make the snout, the eyes, the whiskers.”

In 2009, he made an epic comeback when he agreed to take on a challenge he had not attempted in decades — to craft solely by hand a 9m-tall pillar of gigantic dragon joss sticks for the Chinese New Year celebration.

It certainly was one of his biggest creations of all time and indeed, a rewarding year in his entire career.

Detailed work

Lee said he had his own way of making joss sticks that were different from the ones sold elsewhere. His joss sticks are noticeably thicker than of those made in factories.

He also uses sandalwood powder imported from Western Australia and India, which is of a higher quality compared with sawdust.

Sandalwood is known to be healthier, burns longer and produces an aromatic smell. The only drawback is that it costs much more to produce.

“All these are expensive ingredients especially now with GST (goods and services tax).

“It takes me two days to make a batch of 130 joss sticks. I sell these at RM1 each but my costs are already up to RM50, so my profit is only RM80.”

Despite the costly production to make his sticks, for Lee it’s not about the money. He has been making joss sticks for decades purely out of his passion and good intentions to wish happiness and blessings on other people.

Until today, you are still be able to see Lee moulding, rolling and drying his sticks by hand.

For him, this precious heritage craftsmanship should be valued by today’s generation and preserved.

And for us observers, we were definitely amazed by the determination of this proud living heritage and his commitment to his craftsmanship, especially in today’s modern day where mass production dominates.

With the recent heart-breaking floods that affected most districts in Penang, it is certainly not easy for the locals to persist, Lee included.

However, I personally witnessed the spirit of Penangites who still stand strong despite the rain and storms they encountered. To us, the outsiders, we may see it as just another city but to the locals, it is home.

This article first appeared in uppre.com