With a creaky door handle turn, you’ll find that you are immediately transported back in time as melodic waves of traditional Chinese opera music and nostalgic scents of beloved classic treats like freshly fried lor bak and sweet gingko yam fill the air.
You’re then quickly ushered in to take a seat as the show is about to begin.
Your eyes can’t help but follow the performers’ painted faces and shimmering silhouettes as they sing enthralling tales of good versus evil.
You are transfixed, even as you reach for another warm spoonful of comforting gingko yam.
With clashing cymbals and soaring vocals from opera singers, one would normally expect to be plonked down on a grassy field – just like the olden days.
Not in this cafe, though, where the audience is comfortably seated in the hidden backlot of the Teochew Puppet and Opera House museum.
“The cafe has been a six-year dream of mine,” says Goh Hooi Ling, the 40-year-old museum director.
“But for the past six years I’ve been so busy with running the museum by myself, doing performances and teaching others – one person just can’t do it all.”
Having performed and mastered the art of Chinese theatre since age seven, Goh’s ancestral bloodline is made purely of skilled opera performers; her mother, Toh Ai Hwa, has even been awarded the official title of “Living Heritage Treasure of Penang” by the Penang Heritage Trust group.
Better known to the public as Ling Goh, she is not only the sole director of the museum and cafe, but has also made a name for herself in the Chinese opera scene in Malaysia.
She started her own opera troupe called “Kim Giak Low Choon” in 2009 and after four years of marvellous performances, the 30-member troupe disbanded – which led her to discover the heritage building of Mor Hun Club.
And, after transforming Mor Hun Club’s building into the Teochew Puppet and Opera House back in 2014, it became known as the first Teochew opera museum and performance space in Malaysia.
However, due to last year’s Movement Control Order (MCO), all performances and museum visitations here had to temporarily be put to a stop.
“During the MCO, we weren’t able to perform and there was no income at all,” says Ling Goh.
“But with all the free time, we were finally able to work on the projects that we’ve always wanted to do.”
One such project involved Ling Goh, who stayed positive and made the best out of her situation, finally being able to turn her six-year cafe dream into a reality.
“My friends came over and helped me set up the place in October last year and it took us three months to complete the cafe.
“Before this, it was just a room at the back of the museum that stored extra props.”
Reminiscing on her younger days before modern and international entertainment came about, Ling Goh describes a time when crowds used to gather on grassy fields to watch opera singers for entertainment.
However, an opera night wouldn’t be complete without the delicious accompaniment of traditional Chinese dishes that were sold from pushcarts parked near opera stages – something that Ling Goh tries to recreate here.
“Although the people today think that these types of performances are for prayers and temples, they’re not. These performances are meant to entertain people like you and me,” she says.
Ling Goh wishes to expose more people to the dying art form of Teochew opera, which is why she’s created this cafe in the first place.
This way, customers who dine at Lai H’ng Cafe will have all five of their senses entertained and will be able to live out the full Chinese opera experience without worrying about getting any grass stains on their clothes.
On top of the visually stunning settings and thrilling opera performances, the cafe’s menu is a dive into the past as its flavours stay true to the food that was sold back then.
From si koh teng, succulent water spinach squid and freshly fried lor bak, Lai H’ng Cafe’s menu even features traditional Teochew side dishes like cai kuih and yam bean rolls.
Food aside, customers who reserve a table for the weekends are guaranteed the experience of their lives, as they will have front row seats to special 30- to 35-minute live performances by opera singers who have been trained by Ling Goh herself.
Due to the recent MCO 2.0, Ling Goh’s original plans of opening Lai H’ng Cafe in January 2021 were delayed.
However, with dining restrictions now eased, Ling Goh plans on opening the cafe’s doors soon, and hopes that its concept will make the intricate art form of Teochew opera appeal to the younger generation.
Lai H’ng Cafe
122 Lebuh Carnarvon
10200 George Town
Pulau Pinang
Operating hours:
3pm – 10pm daily
For more updates on Lai H’ng Cafe’s opening date, check out the café’s Facebook page.