Devil Curry or Kari Debal as it is traditionally known among the Serani (Kristang-Eurasian) community, is probably one of Malaysia’s little known heritage dishes.
This is probably because Kristang food was rarely available outside their homes up until recent years.
While Eurasian restaurants still aren’t popping up all over the place just yet, devil curry aficionados can find this dish served in select Nyonya restaurants as well as the handful of Eurasian restaurants out there.
Another reason why this dish is not more popular could be because each Eurasian family has their own take on it, much like many Malaysian recipes. Some like it spicier, some more tangy, while others prefer a dryer curry.
Regardless of familial preferences, ask any Serani and they will likely remember having Devil Curry served on the family table for as long as they’ve been alive.
While there are no legitimate records on the origins of Devil Curry, it is believed to be a fusion of Nyonya and Portuguese cuisine, created soon after the Portuguese arrived to colonise our shores hundreds of years ago.
For the Seranis, Devil Curry is almost always served during Christmas, alongside a spread of roast lamb or roast turkey.
However, as it is a fairly easy dish to put together, it has become more common during regular meal times and other special occasions.
The recipe we have below is a classic in the Danker-Sta Maria family, and they have graciously shared with us how to make it.
Be warned though, it is pretty spicy if you’re not used to eating the hot stuff. Enjoy!
Ingredients: Serves: 6
• 1.2kg whole chicken, cut into 24 parts
• 3g (1 tsp) mustard seeds
• 370g (4 medium potatoes) potatoes, cut into 6 pieces each
• 470g water
• 125g (1 onion) large red onion, cut into 6 segments
• 40g (2 chilies) red chilies, cut into 3 pieces each
• 20g sugar
• 20g salt
• 80g distilled white vinegar
• 70g cooking oil
Aromatics
• 90g garlic cloves, peeled
• 125g shallots, peeled
• 14g (about 2 stalks) lemongrass, white parts only
• 24g ginger, peeled and cut small
• 6g turmeric, cut small
• 10g galangal, cut small
• 78g rehydrated dried chilies, soaked in hot water for 15 minutes
• 110g fresh chilies
• 40g candlenut
• 145g cooking oil
Method: cooking devil curry
• Get all ingredients ready.
• Blend all aromatics until fine. Add a little water to aid in the blending process if necessary. You can also use a food processor.
• Heat cooking oil in a flat-bottomed or regular wok on high heat.
• Without waiting, add mustard seeds to the wok and fry until it starts to pop.
• Add blended aromatics and stir until the sides start to dry up a little, about 3 minutes.
• Add chicken pieces and stir until evenly coated.
• Add cut potatoes next. Also stir and mix until evenly coated.
• Add water and stir until the curry is mixed well. Bring to a simmer.
• Turn the heat down to medium low and leave to cook until the potatoes are tender and chicken is thoroughly cooked, about 18 to 20 minutes. Leave the wok uncovered and stir occasionally, but not too often so the chicken pieces stay intact.
• Once chicken and potatoes are cooked, add cut onion and red chilies. Stir through and let it cook for about 10 minutes.
• Add sugar, salt and white vinegar and stir until thoroughly mixed. Unlike most curries you’re familiar with, devil curry has a moderate sour-vinegary taste. The curry should taste sour, but not overwhelm you with vinegar fumes. Cook for another 12 to 15 minutes, depending on how thick you would like your devil curry.
• Serve with soft white bread or rice.
Extra tips
• Important – the weight of rehydrated chilies is after it has been rehydrated.
• If you’d like a less spicy Devil Curry, remove and discard seeds from both the rehydrated and fresh chilies.
• The trickiest part of this recipe is blending the aromatics – we recommend using a food processor if you don’t have a powerful blender. Alternatively, feel free to either cut the ingredients extra small beforehand, or give the blender compartment a good shake every once in a while.
• If you would like a dryer Devil Curry, continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has dried or thickened further. Alternatively, add a little less water at the start.
• Devil Curry always tastes better the next day. Besides Kristang cuisine, Devil Curry also works really well with Nyonya food.
• Unlike typical curries, Devil Curry contains no coconut milk, curry leaves or typical curry spices – it’s a different breed of “curry” altogether. But it is still delicious. Devil Curry is also great for freezing and can keep for up to three months.
This article first appeared in butterkicap.com
Butterkicap is a food and culture platform and community that enables anyone to experience Malaysia through stories of her people, food and places.