Ibri in Oman, is a small oasis town in the back of beyond, several hours’ drive from the capital, Muscat.

With hindsight you have to wonder why the Bank ever opened a branch in Ibri. There was very little commercial activity other than small traders and builders there.

The interior of Oman was fairly impoverished in those days and most of the personal savings and current accounts had very low balances.

Over half of the customers were illiterate and transactions were evidenced by thumbprints, and account holders were identified by the photo stapled in their savings passbook. The staff too had very little schooling.

Apart from the bank manager there were only two westerners in the town – they worked for the US Peace Corps and were married to each other.

For entertainment, the bank manager would occasionally drive 100 km (round journey) to the Strabag camp near Bahla to watch a film and have a beer (Strabag, an Austrian/German construction company, were building a road nearby).

A favourite mid-morning snack was an omelette, flavoured with thin slices of fiery green chillies and rolled up in Arabic bread. It was delicious.

Considering Ibri was so far from the sea, its fish market had quite an array of fish but with no fridges or ice in sight it didn’t smell great.

Shaking hands was (and probably still is) the main social pastime in Ibri. A boss would have to shake hands with each of his staff and say “Kaif Halak?” (How are you?) several times a day.

Needless to say, after four years in Oman one could very well get completely barmy.

After a hard day in the office helping his staff look for the cash shortage and balance the general ledger, the bank manager would return to this palatial home for a stiff gin and tonic, an inedible meal and a lonely evening in, listening to Abba cassettes before the power went out.

Ibri was not an easy assignment for a young bachelor and the Bank recognised this by rotating the manager out and back to civilisation (i.e. Muscat) after less than a year.

This article first appeared on thriftytraveller.wordpress.com