Shankar, a lawyer turned chef, was unapologetic about the lashings of pure desi ghee he used, saying it is the right kind needed to make veetu tosai.
“The tosai we get outside is so thin you would have to fold it a few times, and drench it in curry to get some heft. This is not right,” he said.
At 52, Shankar is celebrating the sixth week of his “Fire by Shankar” restaurant in Penang, and it appears that repeat customers have claimed every available seat, along with newbies.
The indoor dining section is warm and inviting, with photos of the Chennai streetscape shot by renowned photographer SC Shekar. The pictures are hung there on condition that some of the restaurant’s revenue go back to helping the Orang Asli.
For those who opt for outdoor seating, a view of the marina and gentle sea breeze await. An Indian fine-dining establishment specialising in Tamil cuisine is a rare gem in Penang and a departure from the ordinary.
Shankar said that while there is plenty of Tamil food in the state, the authenticity is often suspect. Bold flavours and spicy heat are toned down to cater to perceived preferences. And he is on a mission to redefine this perception.
Shankar is a purist when it comes to ingredients. Generous portions of meat are guaranteed — every single meat dish weighs at least 200g, with cuts coming from as far as Argentina and New Zealand. For every plate of chicken or mutton varuval, he proudly said there is only meat and no bones.
The culinary journey at Fire is a dynamic one, with the menu refreshed every few weeks. This not only keeps the offerings exciting for guests but also fuels the energy of the kitchen team, he said.
Describing the essence of Indian culture, Shankar said: “Indians are the Italians for Asia – Indians start talking to each other from afar, they are tempestuous, loud, wear our hearts on our sleeves.”
That spirit translates into the dining experience here, where patrons are invited to embrace the flavours with gusto. He also assures that the food is not too “chilli hot” and guests are guided through unique ways to cool their palates when necessary, such as mixing the food with fresh yoghurt.
During FMT Lifestyle’s taste test, the food indeed captured the essence of Tamil Indian cuisine, nailing the pure basics from a thick ghee veetu tosai to the spinach and dhall curry, which was a great combo.
The masala lamb chops, cooked medium rare, were divine, while the bendi in sour cream, brought a pleasant tanginess.
Also worth noting is that the rice served is of the ponni variety, named Kaveri bank rice on the menu in recognition of where it is grown in India. It doesn’t clump as it is laced with a tinge of coconut oil.
The standard bearer chicken and mutton varuval would put other shops to shame, while their rendition of the curry leaf prawns wil leave you wanting more.
To complement the flavours, indulge in a cup of the finest Madras coffee, a decoction blended with sweet chicory.
Their cocktails, including the refreshing Madras margarita and Sikkim mai tais, were also top-notch. Don’t miss the virgin Bombay Jal Jeera for a unique taste experience.
The pandan panna cotta is probably one of the finest such examples in Penang, as is their version of carrot halwa.
Shankar also prepares a Sunday Special, where patrons pay RM59 to eat all they can. It is an omakase or “chef’s style” eating, where five food items are served, of which two are proteins.
Fire by Shankar
Ground floor, Straits Quay
Jalan Seri Tanjung Pinang
Tanjong Tokong
Penang
Business hours:
12pm-3pm; 5.30pm-11pm (closed on Mondays)
Reservations: 010-200-0470 or click here.