Prepared with fresh ingredients like onions, turmeric, ginger and galangal, such dishes are known for their distinctive aroma that whets the appetite. They are typically served with ulam (raw herbs) and a variety of sambal.
Sadly, such dishes are now rarely served at home as they are considered too labour-intensive. This risks the gradual loss of these treasured, time-honoured recipes.
To preserve this culinary heritage, Restoran Dulang Tok Wan in Puncak Alam, Selangor is leading the way in promoting authentic traditional Malay cuisine while ensuring it is good for diners’ health.
According to its owner, S Zuraida Said, every dish is prepared using only fresh ingredients, with no shortcuts, to retain its original flavour and nutritional value.
“In the past, villagers did not have access to modern medicine. So, they cooked with health in mind, using vegetables and herbs readily available around their homes or villages,” she told Bernama.
Gesturing to a plate of stir-fried papaya, she explained: “Back then, elders would cook young papaya to help prevent constipation. When I was little, we’d eat it with salted fish and hot rice.”
For the uninitiated, stir-fried papaya has a tender texture, subtle spiciness, and hint of sweetness that makes it surprisingly appetising.
Zuraida, who prefers to be called Cik Da, opened her restaurant in February last year. She brings over 55 years of kitchen experience, having started by helping her father in their restaurant when she was just nine.
Born in Tasek Gelugor, Penang and raised in Gerik, Perak, she grew up in a traditional village setting steeped in kitchen customs, culinary wisdom, and strict hygiene practices.
“I’m not just a cook – I inherited my late father’s kitchen,” she stressed, adding that she was fortunate to learn from Kak Hamidah, one of her father’s kitchen assistants who had previously worked as a royal palace chef.
“She was in her 60s back in the 1970s and taught me a great deal, especially about royal dishes and the finer points of authentic Malay cooking,” Cik Da added, before regaling this writer with more insights into healthy food.
“If you cook crab in coconut milk with pineapple core, it is believed to help reduce gout and joint pain,” she highlighted.
Meanwhile, snails prepared in coconut milk are said to be even more nutritious when combined with sweet potatoes and pucuk manis (sweet leaf shoots), which are high in fibre and can help ease stomach discomfort.
“The combination of these ingredients supports digestion and even helps flush out the fine sand particles commonly found in snails,” she noted.
Cik Da is generous with her knowledge. Noticing the prawns cooked in coconut milk on this writer’s table, she shared that adding mashed pumpkin helps enhance its richness while preserving the prawns’ natural sweetness.
“It’s even better when the prawn flavours blend perfectly with the gravy,” she said with a smile.
According to Cik Da, the main difference between traditional Malay dishes and the offerings of today lies in the choice of ingredients.
“Nowadays, people prefer shortcuts and avoid the hassle of preparing spices from scratch, so the authentic taste is lost. Many, especially the younger generation, have never truly tasted real traditional Malay cooking,” she said.
Every dish at her restaurant is prepared the traditional Malay way: a process that goes beyond ingredients and flavour to reflect the heritage and identity passed down through generations.
Among the royal dishes served at her restaurant are Talam Diraja, Nasi Lamuni, Rendang Rusa (venison rendang), mutton curry, grilled chicken, pulut kuning, and sambal hijau daun kari (green sambal with curry leaves).
To instil greater confidence among diners, the menu at Dulang Tok Wan is overseen by a medical doctor – 33-year-old Ahmad Faisal Ahmad Nazri, the youngest of Cik Da’s four children.
“My son ensures every dish we serve is nutritious and made with high-quality ingredients. We also maintain strict standards of cleanliness and halal compliance,” said the proud mother, adding that all chefs at the restaurant are local Malaysians skilled in traditional Malay cuisine.
In keeping with the kampung spirit, every dish is served in vintage-style floral ceramic plates and bowls, reminiscent of those once used by grandmothers; and all the tableware is cleaned with industrial machines to ensure proper hygiene.
Keen to preserve the legacy of authentic Malay cooking, Cik Da said she is currently compiling her inherited recipes into a book.
She also aspires to franchise Dulang Tok Wan, not only to promote traditional Malay cuisine on a wider scale but also to empower local entrepreneurs.
Learn more about Restoran Dulang Tok Wan on Facebook and Instagram.
Restoran Dulang Tok Wan
17, Jalan Persiaran Hillpark 11/10,
Puncak Alam, Selangor