Nicknamed the “Dream Weaver”, Bangie anak Embol – fondly known as Indai, which means “mother” in the Iban language – hails from Kampung Ulu Sungai Kain, a remote village in this part of Sarawak.

She does not simply weave fabric to be sewn into traditional garments or used as tablecloths or bedspreads. Instead, each motif in her pua kumbu is said to be inspired by messages she receives from deities in her dreams.

The 80-year-old lives at the Rumah Gare Sungai Kain longhouse, home to around 500 residents – many of whom are related by blood, and rely on pua weaving as their primary source of income.

As Indai is not fluent in Malay, her family members stepped in as translators during Bernama’s visit. The mother of five, grandmother of 18, and great-grandmother of 20 smiled throughout.

Born on May 8, 1945, Indai represents the fourth generation of pua kumbu weavers in her family. She began weaving at age 10, following in the footsteps of her grandmother and foster mother.

By her teenage years, she was able to produce meticulously woven pieces on par with those done by seasoned artisans.

“Every day, as early as 5am, Indai would sit on her small red stool in front of her traditional loom and begin weaving,” shared her youngest daughter Rosnah Abdullah @ Rose anak Timbang, 56.

“She can sit there for hours, pausing only at midday before resuming her work until late afternoon. Even though her eyesight isn’t as sharp as it used to be, her passion and dedication remain as strong as ever.”

For her devotion to the craft, Indai was recognised as last year’s National Craft Icon (Pua Weaving), the highest honour in Malaysia’s craft industry. She also received the Craft Artisan Award at the 2024 National Art Awards.

Her other achievements include being named Adiguru Kraf Tenun Pua by Kraftangan Malaysia in 2000; winning the Natural Dyeing Competition organised by Unesco in Bangkok in 1998; and showcasing her work through demonstrations and exhibitions in Singapore, Bangkok, Manila, Paris and Sweden.

She was also honoured as the Sarawak Living Legend Heritage of Ikat Weaving in 2019, and received the Hasanah Golden Threads award in 2023.

To Indai, each pua kumbu she creates, small or large, is a storytelling medium that preserves Iban history, customs, and spirituality.

“I don’t just weave fabric – my inspiration comes from my dreams and the history and soul of my people. My pua kumbu is symbolic of the beliefs and stories of our ancestors,” Indai said, her words translated by her granddaughter Lyndy Kisla anak Gare, 41.

According to Indai, in Iban culture, dreams are often seen as spiritual messages. She said she possesses a special gift for translating those messages into motifs that captivate anyone who can “read” the stories woven into them.

Indeed, her textiles often feature visual narratives inspired by nature and mysticism – among them ferns, crocodiles, human figures, and other symbols that appear in her dreams.

She also creates motifs that reflect the beauty of flora and fauna, but also embody life values deeply understood by those close to Iban culture.

Impressively, Indai is able to skillfully blend traditional and contemporary motifs in her designs without compromising their authenticity.

“This shows that even though she remains faithful to traditional techniques and values, Indai also embraces innovation, including the use of silk and cotton threads to meet market demand,” Lyndy noted.

Her grandmother is also an expert in natural dyeing, an increasingly rare skill, especially among younger generations. “She still relies on roots and plants gathered from nearby areas, which she processes into natural dyes,” Lyndy added.

“Indai maintains traditional dyeing techniques to ensure the colours remain rich, long-lasting and unfading, while also honouring the deep connection between humans and nature.”

The Ibans are further known to perform a sacred ritual known as Ngar – blessing the threads – before weaving begins. Although this ritual is reserved for Iban women, not all are chosen to perform it: only those who receive a calling from ancestral spirits or deities in their dreams may do so.

The Ngar ritual, which can take up to two weeks to complete, is believed to involve communication with the spirits of their ancestors.

Rosnah said her mother became the youngest weaver in Iban history, at age 40, to lead the Ngar ritual. “This not only elevated her as a master weaver but also as a guardian of Iban spiritual heritage,” she said.

“I didn’t believe her stories about the deities at first,” Rosnah admitted, “but after witnessing the Ngar ritual myself, I understood and respected it deeply.”

Believing that knowledge and skills must be passed down, Indai actively conducts workshops and training sessions to teach young people pua-weaving techniques.

But her greatest pride remains in seeing her children, in-laws, and grandchildren continuing her legacy.

“Indai hopes that everyone, regardless of gender, will learn to master the art of pua weaving. She wants to see this tradition reach greater heights and not fade with time,” Lyndy concluded.