The first impression of Cebu, one of Southeast Asia’s most celebrated island provinces, is architectural.
The new Mactan-Cebu International Airport is a stunner, its sweeping wooden roof evoking an inverted boat hull. The terminal won “Airport of the Year – Asia” at the 2025 TDM Travel Trade Excellence Awards in Singapore and was named the seventh most improved airport globally by Skytrax.
The hardware dazzles. The software – human interface – less so. At not-so busy 3pm arrival time, only one official seemed to be assisting passengers with a mandatory e-arrival card app download, and she looked more like a tourism ambassador than an immigration officer.
But airports are merely gateways. This journey with my wife had a personal beginning. We spent the first night in San Fernando, staying with a Malaysian friend and former yoga guru who has created a verdant hill sanctuary overlooking the coast. The morning ridge walk, with sea breezes and birdsong, set the tone for what would be a trip shaped by nature.
From San Fernando, our host, Dr Dilip Kumar, arranged a local driver in his trusty Toyota Vios taxi to take us 94 kilometres south to Oslob – a two-hour journey along Cebu’s scenic coastal highway. Our base there, the Lantawan Resort, proved the best value of the trip: spacious rooms, resort ambience, and warm hospitality at around RM140 a night.
Oslob is synonymous with whale sharks. We booked the 5.30am premium package through the resort. A van whisked us 15 minutes to the embarkation point where rows of bangkas – traditional outrigger boats – waited in the shallows.
The bangkas were rowed a few hundred metres offshore, where whale sharks are lured with shrimps. Wearing life vests and snorkels, we slipped into clear, surprisingly warm water, holding onto ropes as these gentle giants glided past.
“Swimming with whale sharks” sounds daunting, but the reality is serene. Their cavernous mouths open wide to filter-feed, their skin smooth like wet leather. The only “danger” is a mild nudge from a passing fin. It is less adrenaline and more awe.
From whale sharks to sardines: Cebu’s marine theatre does not disappoint. We travelled by local bus to Moalboal, 80 kilometres away, a journey stretching three to four hours with a change at the humble Bato (Samboyan) depot. The canteen there served Filipino staples – braised aubergine, fried fish, pork dishes – and the ubiquitous longganisa, a sweet and spicy sausage shaped like a ball, eaten any time of day.
At Moalboal’s bus terminal, a 20-minute tricycle ride delivered us to D’Gecko Hotel.
Our sardine run was scheduled for a civilised 10am. After breakfast, our guide led us to the beach behind the hotel. Pulling a lifebuoy, he guided us into the crystal-clear sea until we reached the drop-off – a dramatic underwater cliff plunging from 10 metres to over 100.
Out of these depths, millions of sardines emerged. They shimmered and swerved in hypnotic formations, parting and reforming like a living cloud. We swam alongside, enveloped in silver flashes. When satisfied, we drifted back to shallower water where sea turtles grazed calmly on kelp, sunlight streaming through the blue. Floating there, suspended by life vests, time seemed irrelevant.
Cebu’s urban landscape bears the scars of frequent typhoons. Homes and buildings often show patchwork repairs, perhaps reflecting the futility of rebuilding too expensively in nature’s path.
Yet beneath the waves, resilience reigns. Beaches and sea beds recover quickly. Conservation efforts are evident: environmental fees are collected, guides enforce rules, and tourists are educated before entering the water.
The Philippines consistently ranks among Southeast Asia’s top destinations, with Cebu frequently listed alongside Palawan and Bicol for natural beauty and adventure.
Our modest budget – whale shark encounter at around RM80 per person, sardine and turtle guide at RM30, environmental and entrance fees modest, transport and accommodation all reasonable – delivered extraordinary returns.
For travellers seeking outdoor adventure with a budget, Cebu proved ideal: accessible within four hours from Kuala Lumpur, affordable, rich in marine spectacle, and anchored by warm, informal hospitality.
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