Known as Adan rice, this fragrant highland grain has been cultivated for generations, its continued existence reflecting a long-standing relationship between people and nature.
For the Lun Bawang, it is more than a staple: it is part of daily life, culture and memory. And today, that heritage is being carefully preserved, even as farmers adapt to modern challenges.
In recent years, farmers in Ba’kelalan have begun adopting more sustainable practices through System of Rice Intensification (SRI), introduced in collaboration with World Wide Fund for Nature Malaysia (WWF Malaysia) in 2017.
Unlike conventional approaches, SRI focuses on using less water, avoiding chemical inputs and improving soil health, encouraging stronger and more resilient crops.
Initially, the idea was met with hesitation. “Only 12 farmers were willing to take up the challenge of joining this pilot project,” WWF-Malaysia community engagement and empowerment officer Nadya Cindy Wembly recalled.
Nevertheless, with support from a local bank and training led by SRI expert Zakaria Kamantasha, farmers gradually began to experiment with the method.
By 2019, the difference was becoming clear. Crops were healthier and yields improved, all without the use of chemical fertilisers or pesticides.
The shift also brought wider benefits: farmers saw improved incomes while reducing the need to clear new forest land for cultivation, helping to protect the surrounding environment and waterways.
Even during the disruptions of the pandemic, the community continued its efforts, relying on shared knowledge and local support to keep going.
Recognition came in 2022, when Adan rice was granted Geographical Indication status by the Malaysian Intellectual Property Corporation.
For the community, this formally acknowledged what they had long known: that Adan rice is unique to Ba’kelalan, shaped by its soil, climate, and care of its farmers.
The recognition also helps protect the rice from imitation, ensuring its name remains tied to its place of origin.
And the movement has continued to gain momentum. As of last year, more than 100 farmers had been trained in SRI methods, with 12 Ba’kelalan farmers obtaining Malaysian Good Agricultural Practices (myGAP) certification.
Efforts are also underway to bring Adan rice to a wider market, from specialty stores to tourism platforms, while linking sales to conservation initiatives.
Indeed, Adan rice is increasingly being seen as a premium heritage product – one that carries with it the story of a community, its land and its traditions.
Still, in Ba’kelalan, its meaning remains unchanged. It is still grown the way it has always been – with patience, care, and deep respect for the environment that sustains it.