Here, beneath the glow of streetlights, a mother and daughter keep alive a family tradition that began in pre-independence Malaya.
The roadside stall is run by Ponnammal Arumugam, better known as Ponni, and her daughter, Devaki Malayappan. Together, they are the third and fourth generation of appam sellers in the family.
And behind the fragrant coconut milk and fluffy appam is a story shaped by generations of memories.
Speaking with FMT Lifestyle, Devaki shared that the family’s food journey began in 1954, when her great-grandmother started selling appam and idiyappam (string hoppers) along Jalan Masjid India.
The business was later passed down to her son-in-law, Ponni’s father. Ponni began helping her father alongside her siblings from the age of 10 until she got married. Her younger brother later continued running it with their father until the family closed the stall in 1999.
Then came Devaki.
Before becoming a food entrepreneur, she spent 12 years working as a nurse in Melaka, Saudi Arabia and Kota Damansara. But in 2022, after her father’s health began to decline, she left her profession to help with his catering business.
Last year, Devaki found herself drawn back to the family’s appam legacy, suggesting to her mother that they revive the business.
“She agreed that we should give it a try. That’s how we started making appam again,” said Devaki, 36.
The mother-daughter duo launched BigAppans Appam on Nov 5, with the business named after Devaki’s father, Malayappan.
“In Tamil, ‘malai’ means mountain, and mountains are big. That’s how the idea for the name came about,” Devaki explained.
Back then, the original stall only sold plain appam, but the duo has expanded the menu to include appam with brown sugar, brown sugar and coconut, apam balik and egg appam.
While the egg appam comes with chutney and sambal, the other varieties are served with fresh coconut milk.
All the appam varieties are wonderfully soft and fluffy. This writer especially enjoyed the apam balik version, which comes topped with peanuts, sugar and sweet corn, adding a delightful crunch to the pillowy centre.
Beyond appam, they also serve vegetarian and non-vegetarian nasi lemak, made with basmati rice and paired with sambal. The nasi lemak comes wrapped in packaging designed by Devaki, making it easier for customers to eat on the go.
Additionally, customers can also look forward to egg mayonnaise and sardine sandwiches, alongside tea and coffee. On Tuesdays and Fridays, there is a special treat – masala tea.
Beyond the stall, they also cater for special events and offer live appam stations.
For Ponni, reviving the family business after so many years is something meaningful. “I feel proud that I am bringing my grandmother’s recipe to the present day,” said Ponni, 58.
Years ago, Ponni stood beside her father at the stall. Today, she finds herself behind the appam pans once more – this time alongside her daughter.
“I feel very happy,” Ponni said with a smile.
“I love discussing my ideas with my mother because she always stands by me and wants me to grow as an entrepreneur,” Devaki chimed in.
And sometimes, the past unexpectedly finds its way back to them.
“We feel so proud when some customers ask us how long we’ve been selling appam. When we share our history, some remember my grandfather and mother,” Devaki shared.
Looking ahead, the duo hopes to introduce more appam varieties. Until then, amidst the evening bustle along Jalan Kasipillay, the stall continues to keep a sweet family legacy alive.
BigAppans Appam (in front of Midtown Villa Hotel and Putra Majestik Condominium)
Jalan Kasipillay off Jalan Ipoh
Sentul
51200 Kuala Lumpur
Business hours: 5.30pm-9.30pm (Closed on weekends and public holidays)
Learn more about BigAppans Appam on Instagram and TikTok. For more information, send them a message on either platform.
For location, click here. Prefer not to drive? The Sentul Barat MRT station is only about a five-minute walk away!