It began in the 1500s when Chinese merchants stopping by in Malacca, married local women, and over time, they both assimilated each other’s culture particularly their attire, architecture and cuisine.
Today, Melaka has retained many aspects of this proud Peranakan culture with its cuisine being the most obvious.
The busy Jonker’s street is the go-to place for Nyonya dishes. However, there is one located a stone’s throw away that you should stop at for a meal when you’re in Melaka next.
Called Cottage Spices, the restaurant usually has a long queue outside, a clear sign that the fare inside is worth standing in line for.
The interior is cosy and inviting, reminiscent of the intimacy of home where family members gather around the table for a hot and satisfying meal.
Yong Wai Leng, 50, is the proud owner of the restaurant and the sole cook here. He learned the art of cooking Nyonya food from his grandmother, who used to work for a Nyonya family.
“I used to observe my grandmother cooking and that was where I learned the Nyonya dishes like the Asam pedas fish, Ayam Pongteh, and Udang Masak Lemak.
“My family are all cooks. So I guess, it wasn’t difficult for me to experiment and pick up the skills,” he told FMT, while managing to take a short break in between his cooking.
Yong explained that over the past 19 years, he has improvised on the dishes based on customers’ feedback.
FMT was treated to some of the restaurant’s most asked-for Nyonya dishes. On the menu was Ayam Pongteh, a chicken and potato stew; otak-otak, a Southeast Asian fishcake; and ‘Sotong masak lemak’, a pineapple-squid curry that was spicy, sweet, sour and oh, so delicious.
While every dish was unique and delicious, the ‘sotong masak lemak’ took the number one spot hands down. The squid was cooked just right, drenched in the sweetness of the curry that was laden with slices of tangy pineapple.
The curry itself was addictive, infused as it was with saffron and lemongrass that filled the air with a fragrant scent. If you prefer prawns to squid, just let Yong know!
The otak-otak, sourced from Muar, perfectly complemented the Nyonya curry and rice. Firm and flavourful, a small plate is never going to be enough owing to how delicious it is.
And now, get ready for a dish synonymous with Peranakan cuisine – Ayam Pongteh. While the authentic variety is a stew, Yong’s features a thick gravy but uses all the same core ingredients, particularly fermented bean paste to achieve that unmistakable ‘Pongteh’ flavour.
For dessert, try a hearty bowl of cendol. This restaurant serves a generous heap of red beans, loads of thick gula Melaka and a mountain of shaved ice, making this a truly pleasant dessert.
There’s more to explore at Cottage Spices if you’re feeling hungry and in the mood for authentic Nyonya fare. Dishes are priced from RM15 onwards depending on portion size.
Cottage Spices Nyonya Restaurant
171, Jalan Merdeka
Taman Melaka Raya
75000 Melaka
Business hours:
Lunch: 12.00pm–3:00pm
Dinner: 6.00pm-8.30pm
Closed: Thursday
Contact: 019-667 9797