Some eateries, however, are hardy survivalists, able to last years and even decades of societal change, economic downturn, and even pandemics. They are often regarded with respect, and usually offer something special and old-school that new-fangled outlets cannot.

So where are these enduring institutions of Malaysian food culture? Here’s a selection among the many out there that have been blessed with longevity.

1. Yut Kee, Kuala Lumpur (since 1928)

Imagine a restaurant that has been around as long as your grandparents have! Originally located on Jalan Dang Wangi – or Campbell Road, as it was known in those days – Yut Kee moved to its present location on Jalan Kamunting in 2014.

This eatery is the epitome of a Malaysian kopitiam, with the strong scent of freshly brewed coffee wafting through the air daily. Its eggs and toast are popular among patrons, while long lines tend to form for its famous Hainanese chicken chop.

With recipes that have hardly, if ever, changed over the past nine decades, Yut Kee is unlikely to lose its allure anytime soon.

Yut Kee Restaurant (non-halal)
1 Jalan Kamunting,
Chow Kit, 50300 Kuala Lumpur

Business hours: 7.30am-3pm (closed on Mondays)

2. Sek Yuen, Kuala Lumpur (since 1948)

When the Japanese occupiers left in 1945, one can only imagine hawker brothers Phang Chew Kan, Meng Yun and Shue Tang would have been happy to see normalcy return.

Three years later they would open Sek Yuen, their first restaurant, which was quite a change from the wonton-noodle stall they used to operate before the war.

Today, Sek Yuen still sits quietly where it was built on the ever-congested Jalan Pudu. A household name among the local Chinese community, the restaurant is known for its delicious delicacies and has hosted numerous banquets and weddings.

Sek Yuen continues to draw crowds, especially during the Chinese New Year when folks come over hoping to savour its famed jellied chicken or Pei Pa duck.

Restoran Sek Yuen (non-halal)
313 Jalan Pudu,
55100 Kuala Lumpur.

Business hours: 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm (closed on Mondays)

3. Hameediyah, Penang (since 1907)

Penangites are a proud lot when it comes to their rich and diverse food culture, and one eatery most locals still rave about is Hameediyah.

With over a century of history behind it, Hameediyah made it into the Malaysia Book of Records as the country’s oldest nasi kandar restaurant.

In the 1900s, Thamby Rawther arrived in Penang with his three sons, with whom he started a spice business. One thing led to another and the family eventually tried their hand at cooking.

Thamby’s nasi kandar quickly gained a large following. While he may have long passed, Hameediyah is still standing, having the honour of being one of George Town’s most crowded eateries at lunchtime.

Hameediyah
164, Lebuh Campbell,
10100 George Town, Penang

Business hours: 10am-10pm (Sundays to Thursdays); 10am-12.30pm and 3pm-10pm (Fridays)

4. Winner Hotel Cantonese Restaurant, Kota Kinabalu (since the 1960s)

Don’t worry, East Malaysians, you have not been forgotten! In Sabah, the Winner Hotel Cantonese Restaurant has been around for generations and invokes fond memories among many.

As to be expected from its name, the restaurant specialises in Cantonese cuisine, though there are Hakka dishes on the menu as well.

Among its signature fare are steamed pork with salted fish, crispy skin chicken, fish maw soup, and tofu with spring rolls.

During its heyday, the restaurant was a popular venue for weddings, though it now has to contend with new, fancier hotels that have sprung up in Kota Kinabalu.

Winner Hotel Cantonese Restaurant
Level 2, Winner Hotel
9 & 10, Jalan Pasar Baru, Kg Air,
88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah

Business hours: 11am-2pm, 6pm-10pm

5. Noodles Descendants, Kuching (since 1957)

Old-timers in Kuching may remember a noodle stall at the Min Joo Café on Bishop Gate, where people would line up for a piping hot bowl of noodles and soup.

The stall is no longer there, but don’t worry, they simply relocated and are now operating out of a restaurant proper on Padungan Road called Noodle Descendants.

Their delicious noodles are tossed in black vinegar and shallot oil, and you can get a bowl or pork offal soup to go with it.

The wait time is said to be rather extensive, but most customers remain patient as the food makes it worthwhile. Visitors are encouraged to drop by on a weekday, when lines are shorter and the wait more tolerable than on the weekends.

Noodle Descendants
188, Jalan Padungan,
93100 Kuching, Sarawak

Business hours: 8.30am-2pm daily