This is the Malayan Railway Building, also known as the “Big Ben” of Penang. Located on China Street Ghaut, it was the tallest building on the island upon its completion in 1909.

For decades, its clock tower would chime hourly, reverberating throughout George Town. Today, the clock remains stuck at different times, on all four faces: a haunting reminder of the past.

The building served as a ticketing office and lodging for those taking the train to Prai station across the channel. Each ticket would allow commuters to ride on a steamer at the 644ft Railway Pier – the longest at the time – located across the road to Prai station.

Owing to the lack of actual locomotives or railway lines connected to it, newspapers in the 1900s dubbed the Malayan Railway Building a “ghost” station.

The edifice was designed by government architect A B Hubback, whose work includes the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, Carcosa Seri Negara, and Masjid Jamek, to name just three.

It boasts early-20th-century colonial architecture, and features a striking facade with a blend of European and Asian designs. Despite the “M.R. 1907” inscription, the building was designed in 1904 and completed five years later.

Inside, one could find booking offices, a waiting hall, a restaurant, and a bar. The two other storeys were designated as office space for lease to the public.

It also had the latest lifts installed, which remain today. At one point the Federated Malay States Railways (FMSR) had plans to turn the building into a first-class hotel, but the plan never took off.

Over the years, the building saw changes in ownership and purpose. It was occupied by the customs department in the 1960s – which led to it being popularly known as the Customs building – but remained under the ownership of the FMSR, later the Railway Assets Corporation (RAC).

After the customs department left last year, the state of the 113-year-old structure has remained in flux, and sadly, it has now fallen into disrepair.

FMT was recently granted access into the building by its owners, the RAC. Inside, beautiful Minton tiles from the early 19th century still adorn the walls. Some of them appear to have been hacked out, although a large number of them seem intact.

The tiles are similar to the ones used in the United Kingdom Houses of Parliament, the United States Capitol, and in old European train stations.

The building features a large stairway flanked by two ancient elevator chambers. On the ground floor, what used to be the waiting hall is now filled with debris left behind by previous occupants.

On the top floors, many partitions have been removed, and a big conference room has been hacked out. Still, the wrought iron rails of the stairs and many other artefacts from the early 1900s are present.

Solid teak holds up rafters and windowsills. A circular stairway leading to the attic, which in turn leads to the clock house, remains solid and accessible.

Speaking with FMT, senior tour guide Clement Liang opined that the railway building’s clock tower ought to be saved.

“Growing up in George Town, the chimes were iconic. I remember hearing them as a kid in the late 1970s,” he said. “In every good city, there is a good clock tower, and it will chime.”

A source from the transport ministry, meanwhile, told FMT the building had been leased out to an investment company in May last year.

Of note is that it has been marked as a Category I heritage building under the latest George Town World Heritage Site Special Area Plan draft – meaning, rightfully, that it cannot be altered in any way.

The RAC said it would ensure those who lease the building will restore it while retaining its original form.

All in all, the Malayan Railway Building is not just a historic monument – it is a significant part of the state’s heritage.

Its clock tower stands as a symbol of a bygone era, reminding one and all of the island’s rich history, and of the building’s vital role in the development of the city.