Many found work cooking for colonial households, where they built a reputation for their culinary skills before eventually opening their own kopitiams.
In Klang, that heritage lives on in a cosy eatery called “the hainanory” – short for “Hainan story” – which opened its doors last October.
Housed in a pre-war shophouse along Jalan Raya Timur, the space feels like a bridge between past and present. Wooden beams, floors and a staircase hint at the building’s heritage, while the clean, tasteful interior exudes warmth.
“We spent about one and a half years renovating this place. We tried to preserve as much of the original structure as possible,” Tan Yi Zhong, the eatery’s co-founder, told FMT Lifestyle.
For Tan, “the hainanory” is more than just a business – it is a continuation of a family legacy.
Most of the recipes here, he shared, were inherited from his late grandfather, who arrived in Port Klang from Hainan Island in the 1930s. He later worked as a banquet chef, cooking for weddings, temple festivals and community gatherings.
The recipes were later passed down to Tan’s aunt, a former caterer. When she closed her catering business during the pandemic, she felt the recipes ought to be preserved. So together with Tan, his cousin and cousin-in-law, she started “the hainanory”.
“Here, I hope that our customers can experience the kind of food my family enjoyed,” said Tan, 35.
Among the standouts is the Hainanese mutton soup. Rich and comforting, the soup features tender mutton meat, white radish, black fungus, “fu chuk” (dried beancurd skin) and Chinese herbs. The dish can be enjoyed on its own or with a bowl of white rice.
“My grandfather used to cook this for events in a big pot. Once it was ready, everyone would queue up with their own bowls,” Tan revealed.
Another highlight is the Hainanese chicken chop, served with creamy vegetable soup. The chicken is juicy and fried to a golden crisp, accompanied by potato wedges, green peas and a generous portion of brown sauce.
The soup adds a comforting touch – simple and homey, with carrots, potatoes and onions. “My grandfather used to cook this for the family when my aunt was young,” Tan shared with a smile.
If you’re in the mood for noodles, the Hainanese mee is worth a try. The noodles are served in light fish broth with chicken and prawns. The dish comes topped with thinly-sliced omelette, cucumber, pineapple and onions, which add depth and flavour.
The chicken rice is a comforting classic done right here. Served with either poached or fried chicken, the fragrant rice pairs beautifully with the meat. The dish comes with acar, fresh cucumbers, chilli sauce and ginger, making each bite flavourful and satisfying.
Other offerings include nasi lemak, mee siam, vegetarian Hainanese chicken chop and Hainanese mee, among others.
On Saturdays and Sundays, customers can look forward to traditional Hainanese kuih such as “yi bua”, made with glutinous rice flour and filled with coconut, peanut and other ingredients.
Pair your meal with the refreshing homemade Hainanese pineapple soda. “We slice fresh pineapples into small chunks, cook it in sugar water until tender, then mix it with soda,” Tan said.
For something hot, the kopi is a satisfying choice – thick, creamy and perfect with crisp toast.
Overall, a meal at “the hainanory” feels like a comforting glimpse into Hainanese culinary heritage, where family recipes and traditional flavours continue to live on.
the hainanory
22, Jalan Raya Timur
41000 Klang, Selangor
For location, click here. Prefer not to drive? The Klang Komuter station is about a two-minute walk away.
Business hours:
7.30am-4pm (Closed on Wednesday unless a public holiday)
Contact: 012-621 8799