How tempoyak won an EU ambassador’s heart (and stomach)

How tempoyak won an EU ambassador’s heart (and stomach)

Rafael Daerr expected to learn more about tiger conservation during a visit to rural Pahang - but discovered a fondness for fermented durian instead.

EU ambassador Rafael Daerr tucking into a hearty serving of gulai ikan patin tempoyak. (Bernama pic)
KUALA LUMPUR:
Tempoyak is not a dish everyone falls in love with at first bite. Made from fermented durian, it is one of Malaysia’s more distinctive flavours – beloved by many, avoided by others, and often described as an acquired taste.

For European Union ambassador to Malaysia Rafael Daerr, however, it was love at first spoonful.

The diplomat traces his fondness for tempoyak to a visit last year to Kampung Kuala Sat, a village on the edge of Taman Negara in Pahang, where he was attending the launch of a tiger conservation project supported by the European Union.

Amidst discussions with village elders and conservationists, lunch was served – rice, fresh greens, and gulai ikan patin tempoyak.

“The locals observed how enthusiastically I embraced it,” Daerr told Bernama with a laugh. “From that moment, tempoyak reappeared at every meal – breakfast, lunch and dinner during my stay.”

The experience left a lasting impression. “The homemade quality, the warmth of the company, the very terroir of Pahang – it all converged to create something unforgettable,” he gushed.

Back in Kuala Lumpur recently, Daerr revisited the flavour during a tempoyak-themed dinner in Kampung Baru, where he happily tucked into dishes including gulai ikan patin tempoyak, pais tempoyak and asam tempoyak.

His appreciation for tempoyak perhaps comes as less of a surprise when one learns he is also a devoted durian fan.

Mmm, fermented durian – cherished by many, shunned by others, and certainly an acquired taste. (Year of the Durian pic)

“Malaysia has some of the best durian in the world – Musang King, Black Thorn, durian kampung and D24. I enjoy durian a lot,” he said.

Still, for Daerr, food is about far more than taste: “Malaysians celebrate friendship and company with food. It creates a holistic experience.

“Both in the EU and Malaysia, food is more than sustenance; it’s a language of hospitality, a bridge between cultures.”

That lesson has stayed with him throughout his time here. He first visited in 1979 during a family trip to Johor Bahru and Mersing, and later returned for his honeymoon in 2011.

Daerr says his appreciation for the country has only deepened since taking up his diplomatic post last September.

One of his favourite ways to explore the country is by road. “Driving allows you to absorb the landscape, to take a spontaneous detour or stop along the way,” he said.

A journey to Pangkor, for example, might include seafood in Kuala Selangor or Sekinchan, a stop to admire padi fields, a visit to Teluk Intan’s leaning tower, and a detour through Kuala Kangsar or Ipoh.

“Each detour tells a story,” he noted. “And there is still so much more to see.”

Judging by his enthusiasm for tempoyak, it is likely many of those discoveries will happen around a dining table.

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