Among these high-flyers is Zoee Wong who works at a one Michelin-starred restaurant in San Francisco.

Having worked in numerous fine dining restaurants around the world, Wong has experienced a lifetime’s worth of culture and cuisines.

During one of the rare moments she’s not in the kitchen, Wong shared her story with FMT.

“I have been cooking since I was eight years old and I wanted to be a pastry chef when I was younger,” explained Wong.

Born with a love for food, Wong’s family was always more interested in eating than cooking, so it was up to her to sharpen her own culinary skills, starting first with pastry making.

“I used to love baking birthday cakes for people,” she recalled.

But how did this young Malaysian pastry chef end up crafting meals at an American Michelin-starred restaurant?

She was offered the role at Birdsong by its founder Christopher Bleidorn, whom she had previously worked with. Keen on exploring new challenges, she took up the role in February 2020.

Working in a prestigious restaurant like Birdsong differs significantly from that of any ordinary dining establishment, as Wong related.

“It’s very demanding,” she said, pointing out that Michelin-starred restaurants place heavy attention to detail.

“Each herb that you see on the table has been examined by someone to make sure there’s not a little scratch or bruise,” she said.

“Every sauce component has been tested out to the nth degree to make sure it’s the best fit for the dish.” She added that even the standard of service at a restaurant plays a crucial role in garnering a Michelin star.

Asked if kitchens are as chaotic as depicted in certain reality television programmes, Wong refuted the claim.

“The kitchens that I have worked in have been open kitchens and they have been run by calm and cool chefs who can deal with pressure very well.”

Wong also clarified that not all chefs are like the fiery Gordon Ramsay.

“We’re not all angry and rude to each other all the time! I’ve worked in really friendly and talented kitchens, with big-hearted and kind people.”

She is particularly inspired by chefs who have changed the way she looks at food, especially those that deliver experiences beyond the plate.

Regarding the role of women in professional kitchens, Wong notes that signs are encouraging for female chefs looking to break into the industry.

“I think women are thriving in the kitchen, but we need more recognition,” she said. “I hope there’s a growing trend for more women being recognised in the kitchen.”

Wong believes that the most important value of food is its ability to unite people and also how it plays a role in preserving the planet.

“Increasingly, it’s important for me to use food as a conduit for a message of respecting the earth, in terms of where the produce comes from and the people who make it,” she said.

With the Covid-19 pandemic disrupting the world, culinary trends have also adapted to meet the higher demand for food that is fast and casual.

“People are going to see concepts that are more thoughtful and sustainably sourced,” she said, adding that fine dining chefs have been forced to adapt their ways to survive this tough time.

Being born and raised in Malaysia, Wong is interested in the possibility of exporting Malaysian delicacies to international kitchens.

“I’ve made a sandwich with sambal in it, if that counts,” she laughed, when asked if she has made any local dishes for American diners.

Her reluctance to produce a Malaysian menu is solely because she claims to have a lot to master. Still, she is open to the idea, as cross-culinary culture has always been a thing throughout the history of food.

Given that there are Michelin-starred restaurants in Thailand and the Philippines, Wong remains uncertain about seeing more similar restaurants in Malaysia.

Above all else, Wong believes that it is important for any chef to appreciate every experience and to view them as learning points to grow from.

As for Malaysian women considering a culinary career, Wong chirps, “Just do it! It helps that many women are out there doing their own thing, so do not be afraid to put your hands up and get going.”