A breathtaking trek to Berwickshire’s Fast Castle Walk

A breathtaking trek to Berwickshire’s Fast Castle Walk

While the ruins are only 1.2km each way from the nearest parking lot, there is a steep descent of around 110m, which, of course, you have to climb back up.

There it is – the faraway remains of Fast Castle, which dates back at least to 1346. (Northumberland Traveller pic)

Fast Castle is the ruined remains of an ancient fortress at a spectacular coastal location in the Scottish Borders, just under 10km shy northwest of the Berwickshire fishing village of St Abbs.

The origins of the castle are lost in the mists of time, but its first mention in history books dates back to 1346 when it was occupied by the forces under Henry Percy Earl of Northumberland.

It alternated between English and Scottish ownership over the centuries before falling into disuse and ruin in the 1600s.

Fast Castle then became a haunt for smugglers and robbers who used lights to lure passing ships into what they thought would be a safe haven, only to be dashed on the rocks below and have their cargoes stolen.

It is thought the name Fast originates from this, being a corruption of faux, i.e. false.

Reverend John Thomson’s 1823 painting ‘Fast Castle from Above’. (Northumberland Traveller pic)

When the reverend John Thomson made the above painting in 1823, the castle was already in ruins, but it provides an idea of how it could have looked prior to its destruction.

Now, after another 200 years of battering by the elements, only fragments remain.

To reach the castle, it takes an invigorating walk from the nearest parking space next to Dowlaw Farm. It is a relatively short distance, only 1.2km each way, but there is a steep descent of around 110m to the castle which, of course, you have to climb back up.

Even doggos enjoy the trek through the heather as you approach the ruins in the distance. (Northumberland Traveller pic)

A well-marked path through the heather ensures you won’t get lost. After a while you will get the first glimpse of the castle, a long way down, with what appears to be nothing more than a section of ruined wall sticking up.

As you get closer, however, the castle’s spectacular outcrop position becomes apparent. A narrow path with chain railings across a ravine replaces what would once have been a drawbridge that made the castle almost impregnable to hostile forces approaching from the land.

Care is needed while crossing the gap with sheer drops on either side, and if you look hard enough, you will be able to spot the Torness nuclear power station near Dunbar in the distance.

The remarkable remains of Fast Castle against the stunning backdrop of the clear blue sky and ocean below. (Northumberland Traveller pic)

This walk is definitely worth the effort. If you have any energy left, you could continue your hike along the coastal path southwards another 10km or so to St Abbs, or northwards about 8km to Pease Bay.

This article first appeared on Northumberland Traveller.

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