Who knew that fried fish in batter and sliced potatoes would make such a delicious combo? And how did this pairing become so popular in the United Kingdom, which has, by all estimates, over 10,500 fish-and-chip shops?
You can ponder these questions while enjoying the dish in question at Lad & Fry, a new restaurant at Wisma Cosway here. The eatery is the brainchild of Tony Yeo Gray, who hails from Manchester, and Keith Koh, co-founder of the Lad & Dad and Lad & Co restaurants in Singapore.
Its name is an extension of Koh’s brand, although “fry” in this context is another word for a young person (or young fish), in keeping with the youthful connotations of “lad”.
Indecisive eaters will probably take a shine to Lad & Fry, as it currently serves only one dish. No prizes for guessing what that is!
The eatery serves the same fish and chips as its Singaporean counterparts, with a few tweaks to account for local tastes. Sea perch is used in place of haddock to ensure affordable prices, while soda batter is used in place of beer batter.
The eatery is Muslim-friendly, with no pork or lard used at all. That said, if you’re looking to wet your whistle, the eatery also plays host to Alright Provisions, which sells craft beers from exotic locales such as New Zealand and Hong Kong.
Digging into Lad & Fry’s famed fish is a delight: its golden-brown crispy exterior conceals tender, flaky flesh, the hearty flavour of which is enhanced by their in-house tartare sauce made with lemon and gherkins.
The chips, made from Australian potatoes, are cooked to perfection, while the mushy peas are infused with a delightful consistency and delectable sweetness.
Lad & Fry is currently offering a lunch set consisting of its signature dish with tartare sauce, mushy peas, free-flow lemonade, and a side dish of corn or coleslaw.
Vintage charm is one of the highlights of dining here. According to Yeo Gray, his eatery’s aesthetics draw inspiration from both the classic British “greasy-spoon” diner and the quintessential Malaysian kopitiam.
This is to evoke rustic vibes: even their music playlists are retro-inspired!
Lad & Fry has only been around for about two months but has already been making a splash. Yeo Gray said their lunch hours often see a full house, and dinner sessions have also been picking up.
He chalks this popularity to the crispiness of their fish batter. “We’ve had people come in and say, ‘hey, it’s like pisang goreng’!” quipped Yeo Gray, who is married to a Malaysian and is in his third year of living here.
The merry Mancunian is planning to expand the menu, adding other British favourites such as bangers and Scotch eggs. The fish and chips, of course, will be the heart and soul of this place, and he welcomes local diners to pop in for a hearty meal.
“We’ve got one of the crispiest fish and chips around, and a good atmosphere here. If you reminisce about being back in the UK, from your studies or travels, this is a great dish to remember your time there,” he concluded.
Lad & Fry
Wisma Cosway,
88, Jalan Raja Chulan,
50200 Kuala Lumpur
Business hours:
12-2pm, 5-9pm (Tuesdays to Saturdays)
For location, click here. Follow Lad & Fry on Instagram.